Feels Good to Move
With the last few weeks of summer 2023, I was very excited to finally head back to China after it had been closed to the world for three pandemic years. I chose to take a rather circuitous route that began with a positioning journey from Boston to Los Angeles via Chicago, followed by this itinerary on Cathay Pacific. With a home base in “Asia’s world city” Hong Kong, Cathay Pacific flourished during the British colonial era with an impressive international network and was regarded as one of the world’s top airlines at one point. However, the pandemic dealt a heavy blow to the airline. It flew less than three percent of its pre-pandemic capacity for the better part of two years, which resulted in many staff being let go. With restrictions finally being lifted, Cathay has been slowly rebuilding its global network. “Feels Good to Move” has become its latest marketing tagline, and it was surely a pleasant experience moving with this storied carrier across the Pacific.
Flight Details
Cathay Pacific (CPA/CX) Flight 881
Origin: Los Angeles International, LAX, Gate 130
Departure: 01:14, 14 August 2023 (UTC-7)
Destination: Hong Kong International (Chek Lap Kok), HKG, Gate 62
Arrival: 06:10, 15 August 2023 (UTC+8)
Duration: 13:56 hours
Aircraft: B-KQH, Boeing 777-300ER, delivered September 2013
Seat: 1A (First)
Cathay Pacific (CPA/CX) Flight 731
Origin: Hong Kong International (Chek Lap Kok), HKG, Gate 30
Departure: 18:07, 15 August 2023 (UTC+8)
Destination: Dubai International, DXB, Gate D6
Arrival: 22:59, 15 August 2023 (UTC+4)
Duration: 07:52 hours
Aircraft: B-LRE, Airbus A350-900, delivered August 2016
Seat: 20A (Business)
Booking
Cathay Pacific has so far (as of September 2023) brought back its highly regarded First Class service to its London, Paris, Los Angeles, Beijing, and Tokyo routes. I booked this flight using 70,000 Alaska Airlines miles and $49.40 in fees.
Award availability for Cathay Pacific is quite rare these days. A few seats for the Los Angeles route were released in February, and I quickly booked one for a date that might work. While I would have preferred planning things out a little more beforehand, I decided to act quickly to secure these seats, which were booked out in less than two days.
Departure Ground Experience
Taxiing past Tom Bradley International Terminal
I arrived at Los Angeles International Airport on an American Airlines flight, which parked at Terminal 5. We taxied past Tom Bradley International Terminal (TBIT) where I would be flying from tonight as we made our way to the gate, which was busy as always. As one of the major international gateways for the US, TBIT is the first glimpse of America for many travellers, evidenced by the diverse array of foreign carriers parked here.
Entrance to Qantas First Lounge
I made my way to the Qantas First Lounge at TBIT, which is available to First Class passengers departing on flights operated by oneworld carriers. While I did not have a boarding pass in hand yet for the evening’s flight, the lounge attendant allowed me to enter after seeing my itinerary confirmation. Curiously, she was not aware of Cathay Pacific having resumed First Class service from LAX and called a supervisor to confirm before admitting me. I felt quite lucky to be able to experience this newly reinstated product before many others.
The lounge was quite empty, making extensive use of Qantas’ colour palette of red, black, and grey while also featuring a honeycomb motif. There was plenty of comfortable seating available and an additional à la carte dining area off to one side. A selection of wines was available for self-serve, with many among them coming from the airline’s native Australia. The decor was modern but composed. While there were no views of the tarmac, the lounge looks directly down at the busy check-in hall of TBIT, where many travellers mark the beginning of their long journeys.
I headed over to the dining area to grab a bite. The lunch and dinner menu designed by Australian chef Neil Perry featured local produce and seasonal flavours. I tried the salt and pepper squid, which Qantas is known for serving in many of its global lounges. The pieces of squid were quite thick, but also soft and tender. The squid itself was not heavily seasoned, but the garlic aioli and green chili sauce provided some contrasting flavours. The meaty serving and bold flavours represented Australian seafood quite well. I also tried the lychee and watermelon-based drink they had on offer, which was quite refreshing for the summer day.
The seared striped bass was simple but pleasant, with a crusty salted skin and flakey meat. I finished with the muscovado flan. The molasses flavour added some complexity to the dish, though the pieces of mango were a bit tough. The portion sizes were on the small side, which was perfect since I did not want to overeat before the flight.
As the night approached, I took a shower in the lounge to freshen up a bit before the flight. There was a short waitlist, mostly of passengers on the Qantas flight that night to Sydney, and I waited about 10 minutes before being called back. I am always happy to be able to take a shower while waiting at the airport as it can be hard to find a place to refresh during long-haul travel.
Qantas’ flights to Australia leave LAX around 2230 in the evening, and the first class lounge closed at 2330. With another two hours before my flight leaves, I headed over to the adjacent oneworld business class lounge which was also operated by Qantas. The branding also featured oneworld partners British Airways and Cathay Pacific. Several other airlines also contract this lounge for their premium customers, with many passengers on China Southern this evening. This lounge was noticeably more crowded, but there was still plenty of seating available. The atmosphere was more reserved, with a darker tone in the decor. The dining provided was a buffet area with a selection of hot and cold dishes. I had some salad, curry chicken, and a small oreo pudding, which were all flavourful and relatively fresh.
Gate 130 boarding area
I headed over to the gate about an hour before departure. Late night is now a popular time for departures to Asia, and flights to Taipei, Seoul, and Tokyo at neighbouring gates kept the terminal busy at this hour.
The stately appearance of the Boeing 777-300ER is always a sight to behold at the gate, and Cathay’s elegant livery on this aircraft in the backdrop of the lights and movement on the ramp was quite pleasing to observe. Central to Cathay’s branding is the calligraphic brushwing logo which has been in use since 1994. Boarding began at the scheduled time of 0035, although the ground crew had some trouble with the face-scanning boarding system, which led to a delay of a few minutes. First Class passengers and oneworld Emerald elites were invited to board first, and I walked down the jet bridge connected to the L1 door, excited as always.
Los Angeles to Hong Kong Onboard Experience
Two crew members welcomed me at the door and led me to my seat on the left side aisle. With three seats across each row of the cabin, these First Class suites are some of the widest in the sky. The seats were in a beige colour tone, giving a fairly modern look, although the fabric was beginning to show its age. The seats were angled toward the window, with a storage compartment next to the footwell, and there were also some pillows and blankets waiting at the seat.
With no overhead bins installed, the six-seat cabin felt very open and spacious. The entertainment screen slid across for optimal viewing angles, with a touch-screen controller at hand level. There was also a seat control screen on the side, power ports, and a storage compartment where there were some Bose headsets. A menu and an amenity kit from the British brand Bamford with a few skincare products were also at the seat. The amenity kit included a booklet that described the bedding and other amenities available onboard.
The two flight attendants working in First Class and the cabin manager came to introduce themselves to me and brought me some mixed nuts, a tray with a hot towel, a welcome card, and a cup of sparking JING tea, which was quite creative as a beverage. They also brought me a set of pajamas by PYE, a local Hong Kong fashion branch. One of the flight attendants was from Japan and was very happy to be able to communicate with me in Japanese. The cabin manager and the other flight attendant were Hong Kong locals, and after me trying to speak Cantonese and them trying to speak Mandarin, we figured that communicating in English would be the best. The fiasco with Cathay crew mocking Mandarin-speaking passengers had just happened two months ago, and I wonder how much that factored into their choice of service language. They also asked if I would like to have some Champagne before departure, and I was happy to enjoy some Krug 2004 while settling in.
While I was hoping to have the Chinese supper menu to kick off the Asia trip, only the international menu was left when the crew came to take my order. Amusingly, the flight attendant commented that “to be honest, [the Chinese menu] is not very good; they say it’s lobster, but it’s actually very small,” and would have recommended the international menu anyways. I was a little bit surprised that she spoke of the product this way, but was happy to take her recommendation. Cathay’s crew uses iPads to note orders, adding a modern touch to the personal interactions during the service.
We soon pushed back from the gate and the safety video was screened. This was a fairly conventional safety video, made cheerful by the animated figures that were smiling throughout. With a quick taxi to runway 25R, we took off into the cloudy night sky of Los Angeles. It was well past midnight by now on the North American East Coast where I began my journey. I was quite tired and dosed off for a little bit as we climbed toward the moonlit sky.
Mixed nuts and Cathay delight
Soon after takeoff, the seat belt sign was turned off and the service began. The crew brought some mixed nuts as the cabin lights were still dimmed. I ordered a glass of Cathay’s signature drink, Cathay Delight, to go along. This kiwi-based drink with flavours of coconut and mint was creamy but refreshing, and I ended up having a few more glasses along my journey with Cathay.
The cabin mood lighting was then turned on and my table was set for the caviar course, served with blinis, chopped eggs, and sour cream with chives. I asked to try the Rare Champagne on the menu, and its rich flavours went well with the caviar.
As this was a late-night departure, the meal service proceeded fairly quickly. The appetizer featured richly spiced pumpkin and chickpea, with yoghurt, mint leaves, and pomegranate seeds bringing out a refreshing finish. There was also some pearl pasta that added some volume to the dish. I asked for some of the Bordeaux wine on offer, and its fragrant aromas and depth went well with the dish.
Next came the main dish of the roasted lamb chops which were tender and juicy, albeit a little bit fatty for my liking. The mashed sweet potato was smooth and rich, and the ginger flavouring brought out some spice in the dish. Some broccolini added a hint of green to the plate. The main dish was followed by a cheese course with Bijou, cheddar, and buttermilk blue.
Mixed beans soup dessert
The flight attendant then came by to ask if I wanted any dessert, and I asked for the mixed beans soup (喳咋) from the menu. Soon, she came back with a photo on her phone and said, “So the soup looks like this today, there is not much soup; I need to write a report on this, but would you still like to have it?” Although I was stuffed at this point, I still wanted to try it. The soup came more or less as a bowl of beans, and I only ended up having a little bit. She came back and joked, “See, this is why I told you before, or else you would think I drank all the soup!” I really appreciated her honesty, willingness to admit shortcomings of the onboard product, and humourous approach to temper passengers’ expectations.
I was very tired by the time I finished the meal, and the crew asked if I would like to have the bed made and brought me a small box of praline chocolates. As they prepared the bed, I made a trip to the lavatory and changed into the pajamas. The lavatory featured accents of wood decor in a homely style, stocked with personal care products, again by Bamford.
As I made my way back to my seat, I was surprised to find all three first class flight attendants gathered around and disassembling it! It turns out that the electronic reclining function of my seat was not working properly, and they were trying to figure out how to adjust it manually. I waited as they brought out their iPads and pulled up the operating manual for the seat and tried pushing and pulling all the parts to no avail.
The crew decided to relocate me to an empty seat in business class while offering to ask customer relations to contact me regarding compensation for the incident. I very much appreciated that they took the initiative and made an effort to rectify the situation. I received an email a few days later addressing the issue and offering a one-time upgrade certificate as compensation. I replied asking for 50,000 Asia Miles instead, which they were happy to provide.
The business class seat was decently comfortable, and I slept for about four hours before waking up as we crossed the International Date Line, halfway through our journey across the Pacific. I moved back to my original seat and the flight attendants asked if I would like to order anything. I decided to try some Hong Kong flavours and asked for some milk tea and a bowl of fish and scallop noodle soup. These were both simple but hearty treats, and I appreciated Cathay’s effort to bring the tastes of Hong Kong into the skies.
I spent the next few hours of the flight between eating, doing a little bit of work, and dosing off. Free inflight WiFi is offered for First Class passengers, which I took advantage of. I tried the Espresso Martini crumpet from the dinner menu and enjoyed the contrast of the coffee and caramel flavours, although the bread itself was a little dry. I had some of the Benromach 21 years, a single malt Scotch Whiskey, and the smokey and earthy aromas went well with the sweetness. As the flight attendant cleared my table, she asked me if I needed any entry forms for Hong Kong during my long transit. I would usually head into the city on longer layovers, but I wanted to spend my time in the lounges this time, so I declined the offer. I also tried the quiche with Guanciale Al Pepe, served with sour cream with chives and some pickled vegetables, which also turned out to be a nice and hearty dish.
The day of this flight happened to coincide with the landing of Typhoon Lan in Japan. Thankfully, Cathay’s operations were largely unaffected, but the crew did inform me that they anticipated some turbulence over Japanese airspace and asked if I would like to have my breakfast served before we crossed paths with the storm. Since I was a little full from the mid-flight items, I asked to have breakfast a little later, which the crew was happy to work with.
The breakfast started with a plate of fresh fruits including passion fruit, kiwi, lime, and some berries and melons. I was also brought a bread basket and a plate of miniature jars of fruit jams, which was adorable. I chose the Chinese option for breakfast, consisting of a dim sum set of shrimp dumpling (har gow, 蝦餃), siu mai, and a shrimp and chive dumpling, as well as a bowl of beef and conpoy congee. My family frequently went out to dim sum for brunch in my childhood, and I have always enjoyed all the crafty tidbits that come in various shapes and flavours. Savouring these from a steamer basket 30,000 feet above the ground was a real treat for me.
The sun began to appear beneath the horizon as we flew over Taiwan, and I asked for some Jasmine tea, which came in a teapot along with a butter cookie. I changed out of my pajamas and had a brief chat with the crew in the galley. They told me about the rave reviews that the First Class lounges receive from passengers and encouraged me to enjoy them during my transit. One of them even remarked, “Why do you eat my boring airplane food, it’s so much better at the lounge!” Well, I must say I was excited for what was waiting for me on the ground!
Soon, the crew began preparing the cabin for landing and we descended through the clouds to views of Hong Kong’s New Territories. The crew came by with thanks for travelling with Cathay Pacific, and I was in turn very grateful for their service throughout the flight and their efforts to address the issues that arose. Our approach route took us over Sai Kung, Sha Tin, and Tsuen Wan. From lush green mountains to busy waterways and modern skyscrapers, the rapidly changing scenery outside my window was a testament to the dynamic and cosmopolitan character of Hong Kong.
We touched down on runway 25R at Hong Kong’s airport on Chek Lap Kok Airport. The summer humidity of the Pearl River Delta made its splash and fogged up the windows almost immediately. We taxied past the new terminal under construction and parked at gate 62. First Class passengers were invited to disembark first through the L1 doors, and I thanked the crew again for their wonderful service as I walked onto the jet bridge, leaving the imposing fuselage of the Boeing 777-300ER behind.
Transit Ground Experience
The day was just getting started at Hong Kong airport as we arrived just past 0600 in the morning. All arriving passengers boarded trains that took us to the main terminal, and transit passengers were then directed to a security checkpoint which was still quiet at this hour, bringing me to the departure hall a mere 15 minutes after leaving the aircraft. In contrast to the grim images of rows upon rows of parked Cathay aircraft and empty terminals from the pandemic times, I was happy to see the bright and modern departure hall bustling with passengers and brushwing tails lining the departure gates ready for their journeys to all the corners of the world.
The Sky Bridge connecting the main terminal to the satellite concourse was opened recently in 2022. The glass window panes directly above a busy taxiway offered panoramic views of the ramp movements. As one of the first global hubs that I remember visiting, I hold fond memories of watching airlines from all around the world come and go from this busy terminal, and this new facility certainly brought back the excitement of the childhood days and reminded me of the origins of my ever-enduring love for the skies.
I spent the rest of my eleven-hour transit time in Cathay Pacific’s reputed lounges. I started with the Deck near gate 6 above the main departure level, the newest of the pack. With unassuming wooden furnishings and gentle lighting, it felt modern and relaxing at the same time. The lounge was quite busy with the crowd before the morning departures, but the staff made frequent rounds to keep everything clean and in order. There was a selection of breakfast buffet items, as well as a noodle bar with made-to-order soup noodles. I enjoyed some more dim sum items, trying to save some space for everything the other lounges have to offer.
In contrast to the cozy covered space of the Deck, the Wing was an open-air area in the terminal. With marble finishes, the lounge had the air of a much brighter and grander venue, perhaps more connected to the otherwise buzzing airport. The lounge offers unobstructed views of the tarmac through the glass window panes of the terminal, and it was a joy to planespot from this vantage point. The Wing has separate Business Class and First Class sections, both of which I was able to access on my itinerary. The Business section was just as busy as the Deck, with a comparable selection of food. I decided to order a bowl of Wonton noodle soup from the noodle bar this time, a classic item from Cathay’s lounges.
I went over to the First Class section of the Wing, which was largely in a similar style, except it was much less crowded. The lounge featured expansive seating areas, as well as work zones with desks, monitors, and printers. There were a few buffet items in the main lounge area, but the mainstay of the dining service here is a covered room called the Haven, which features an à la carte dining service in addition to a small buffet of snacks and pastries. I ordered the Vietnamese crab omlette, which was served quickly but steaming hot and nicely plated. The hoisin sauce and coriander gave a distinctively Asian flavour to the egg dish.
Mimosa from the Wing bar
I ordered a mimosa from the bar and spent some time watching the morning ramp traffic get moving. Cheers!
I then walked through the main terminal to the Pier near gate 62. While this lounge also had separate First and Business Class sections, I ended up only visiting the First Class area. Instead of being above the main departure level like the Deck and the Wing, the Pier was an elevator ride down from the departure hall, giving it a more secluded and relaxed feel. The decor uses gentler shades of brown and green, and the overall atmosphere is one of a homely retreat. The lower vantage point means the window views are less expansive, but being closer to the level of the aircraft gave an intimate view of their stature at the gates and was equally enjoyable.
There was similarly an à la carte dining area called the Dining Room, where I enjoyed some Belgian waffles, a shrimp and bamboo shoot dish, a rare beef salad, and a lychee ginger panna cotta, all of which were served quickly and carried unique flavour profiles.
The Pier also offered a complimentary massage service in partnership with THIA Wellness, which operates a spa in Central. After a brief wait, I enjoyed a 15-minute neck and shoulder treatment, which was a nice way to relax before carrying on with my day of exploration. Passengers could also relax in curtained Day Suites, which also offered a view of the aircraft at adjacent gates. I enjoyed the privacy here away from the busy terminal.
I headed back to the Wing to check out the Cabanas, each featuring a full-size bathtub and a day bed. I took the chance to freshen up and take a short nap, as it was getting late in the day for my body clock.
I spent the next few hours in the lounge planespotting and planning my subsequent days of travel. Many passengers and aircraft have gone to places around the earth in the past few hours, and the constancy of the airport terminal was a faithful witness of the dynamics of the ceaseless movement. I headed back to the Haven for some more food. The lunch menu offered a variety of classic Cantonese dishes, and I enjoyed the beef chow fun, steamed chicken, and sweet and sour pork. Despite these being common fare, they were elegantly presented and dutifully seasoned, allowing me to savour another taste of Hong Kong before I left for my next flight.
I again made my way through the busy terminal, now with the afternoon sun filling the air. The A350 taking me to Dubai was parked at gate 30, and the Cathay brushwing looked especially elegant on this swanky jet. The boarding line was already forming, and I boarded with the Business Class passengers following oneworld Emerald frequent fliers.
Hong Kong to Dubai Onboard Experience
We boarded through the L1 door, and I passed through the main Business Class cabin before reaching my seat 20A in the mini-cabin behind the second door. This section contained only eight Business Class seats, which felt quite intimate. Cathay’s Business Class seats on the A350 were introduced in 2016 in partnership with Studio F.A. Porsche. With plenty of storage space, a screen that swivels out from the casing, and extra padded surfaces that make for a larger surface when fully reclined, the seat makes for a comfortable space for long journeys. Seat controls were at the shoulder level along with a remote controller for the screen. Headphones, water, slippers, bedding, an amenity kit, and the menu were waiting at the seat as we boarded.
The flight attendants came through the cabin with beverages and hot towels as I settled in. They also confirmed my online pre-order for dinner and took orders for the appetizer course. I was still quite full from the lounge and tired due to the time difference, so I hoped to go straight to sleep after takeoff and asked to have the dinner later during the flight, which they were happy to do.
Wall panel with brushwing
My seat was right beside the wall panel with a large illuminated brushwing, appearing like a graceful bird flying through the cabin and across the world.
We pushed back about half an hour past our scheduled departure departure time with the sky bridge still in view. The tail camera on the entertainment system is always a joy to follow, although I promptly fell asleep before we reached runway 25L for departure.
Thai beef salad appetizer
I woke up about halfway through the seven-hour flight, and the night had already fallen. I asked to have the dinner service, and the crew came to set my table a few minutes later. Since I was the only one dining at the time, the crew brought each course on a tray promptly throughout the service. I started with the Thai beef salad, and its zingy lime flavours did well to wake me from my slumber. The appetizer was served with some warm and soft garlic bread.
Wok-fried seafood in lobster broth
Next came the main course of wok-fried seafood in lobster broth with rice. This is one of Cathay’s classic Business Class dishes, and the oceanic flavours came through well with the rich broth. The combination of crispy rice with steamed rice made every bite an adventure in the brittleness of the grains. I asked for the Burgundy wine to go along, and its vivacious profile was a nice pairing for the dish.
Next came the cheese course of Tomme, cheddar, and Bleu d’Auvergne, followed by the classic Thai dessert of mango sticky rice, a simple but refreshing end to the meal. The mango was sweet and ripe, and the rice was chilled but not hard. The smooth and creamy coconut flavours also stood out.
I did some work for the next hour or so and got up to visit the lavatory. This was a standard-sized lavatory, but the crew did a good job of keeping it clean throughout the flight. It was also stocked with Bamford amenities, and I appreciated the consistency with this brand throughout the journey.
I spent some time in the galley chatting with the inflight service manager, a thirty-year veteran with Cathay Pacific. It was fascinating to hear his perspective on how the airline has evolved over the years, from the Lockheed Tristars to the Boeing 747s to the Airbus A350s of today. He was also very honest with his concerns regarding the current state and direction of the company, and I appreciated hearing a frontline perspective of the challenges that the airline is facing in the arduous recovery from the pandemic.
Light dinner service, chicken egg noodles, Banoffee pie, fruits
With a little over an hour to go in the flight, the second meal service began, with all the dishes served on one tray. I again chose the Chinese option of egg noodles with chicken and mushrooms, which came with some fresh fruits and a banana cream pie. This was a light but hearty meal, and I appreciated the chance to enjoy some more Hong Kong flavours from its home carrier.
The crew cleaned up the meal service items and prepared the cabin for arrival as we approached Dubai. As we descended through the night sky, the bright lights of the expansive city made their appearance, and we flew by the Burj Khalifa, soaring toward the sky among all the other skyscrapers.
We touched down on runway 12L at Dubai International Airport, with the numerous Emirates A380 superjumbos taking the main stage on the ground. Due to an occupied gate, we held for about 15 minutes on the ramp before parking at gate D6, about half an hour behind schedule.
Concluding Thoughts
Originally, “Cathay” was a historical name for China among Europeans, and Cathay Pacific’s founders had a vision for the airline that it would one day cross the Pacific Ocean from China. Having recently celebrated “75 years of memorable connections” in 2021, the carrier has reached those heights and more, staying true to its home base in Hong Kong and building an experience incorporating Chinese tradition while exuding world-class elegance. I was very happy to be able to experience Cathay’s recently reinstated First Class product. While there were some aspects that were not perfectly executed, the effort to provide a memorable travel experience was evident throughout the journey. The experience was no doubt luxurious, but at the same time tasteful and not ostentatious. I do hope we can continue to see this storied brand soaring through the skies for another 75 years to come.
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