New Horizons with the Golden Falcon
Back in October 2023, Bahrain’s national carrier Gulf Air announced plans to add routes to the Chinese cities of Shanghai and Guangzhou. While the initial announcement anticipated the routes launching in January 2024, a slight delay pushed the date of the first flight to May 2024. As I happened to be making a quick trip to China around this time, I was thrilled to score a seat on the inaugural flight in the Falcon Gold cabin, Gulf Air’s business class product, as part of a ticket connecting Boston-Montréal-Zürich-Milano-Bahrain-Shanghai, operated by Air Canada, Swiss Air Lines, Ethiopian Airlines, and finally Gulf Air for the last two legs.
While today’s aviation market in the Middle East is dominated by the likes of Emirates and Qatar Airways, Gulf Air holds the distinction of being one of the oldest airline in the region. Founded in 1950, it evolved into a collaboration between the governments of Bahrain, Oman, Qatar, and the United Arab Emirates and served as the flag carrier for all four countries. However, one by one, the latter three countries withdrew from the partnership to focus on their own national airline, leaving Bahrain with full ownership of a Gulf Air shrinking in stature and sustaining heavy losses. Gulf Air embarked on a path of restructuring and has recently emerged as a fast-growing carrier in much better financial shape, with Shanghai being just one of many destinations being added to the network this summer. I was delighted to be a part of this noteworthy step forward for the airline, and it was surely a joy joining in this celebration with everyone along the way.
Flight Details
Gulf Air (GFA/GF) Flight 26
Origin: Milan Malpensa, MXP
Departure: 10:28, 27 May 2024 (UTC+2)
Intermediate stop: Rome Fiumicino, FCO
Destination: Bahrain International, BAH
Arrival: 18:25, 27 May 2024 (UTC+3)
Duration: 06:57 hours
Aircraft: A9C-NH, Airbus A321neo, delivered September 2023
Seat: 3F (Business)
Gulf Air (GFA/GF) Flight 124
Origin: Bahrain International, BAH
Departure: 21:36, 28 May 2024 (UTC+3)
Destination: Shanghai Pudong, PVG
Arrival: 11:17, 29 May 2023 (UTC+8)
Duration: 08:41 hours
Aircraft: A9C-FG, Boeing 787-9, delivered October 2019
Seat: 1A (Business)
Booking
Gulf Air has a frequent flyer partnership with Air Canada and its Aeroplan program, which prices its awards by region and distance. Redeeming 87,500 points for itineraries in business class from North America to Asia covering 7,501 to 11,000 miles presents some interesting possibilities. This overall itinerary from Boston to Shanghai cost 92,500 Aeroplan points and CA$103 in taxes and fees (my 27-hour stay in Bahrain triggered a 5,000 point stopover charge). I earned these points through a combination of credit card sign-up bonuses, some flights that I credited to Aeroplan, as well as a conversion of my balance of Shine Points, Air Canada’s employee recognition program, from back in the days when I worked on the ramp.
Milan Departure Ground Experience
Artwork at Milano Malpensa Airport
Departure Board at late night
I flew to Milano the previous night on Ethiopian Airlines’ fifth freedom flight from Zürich, where I received my boarding pass for the flight from Milano to Bahrain. As the aircraft and most passengers continued onto Addis Ababa, I had already cleared Schengen border control on departure, so I spent the night in the international departures zone of Malpensa airport. Few flights were operating in the late evening, and I spent some time walking around the quiet terminal. Malpensa has struggled in Italy’s difficult aviation market, having seen little growth in passenger numbers since the start of the century. Italy’s national carrier Alitalia connected this airport to many global destinations before it moved the bulk of its operations to Roma, and the last decade saw Air Italy’s failed attempt to run an intercontinental hub operation here. Fortunately, Malpensa has been able to partially maintain its connectivity and its status as the second busiest airport in Italy with service on foreign carriers.
Entrance to Gae Aulenti Lounge
Escalators up to the lounge area
Entering the Gae Aulenti lounge at opening
SEA Group, which manages Milano’s two airports, operates several lounges at Malpensa airport, which are used by most foreign carriers. Falcon Gold passengers on Gulf Air are invited to the more premium of the lineup, the Gae Aulenti Lounge, named after the famed architect who was based in Milano. The lounge was located above the central rotunda of the B50-59 wing of the terminal, from which many of the longer flights operate. I headed to the lounge as it opened at 0600, and the friendly agent scanned my boarding pass (for a Gulf Air flight on an Ethiopian Airlines card stock with an Air Canada ticket number!) to check me into the lounge.
Dining Tables
Bar Area
Buffet and lounge chairs with ramp views
Additional seating
Morning ramp views
As one passes the reception desk, there are a few lounge chairs on the left and a bar area on the right, which remained unstaffed throughout my stay. Further along is a buffet and additional seating areas against the window. There were several other passengers in the lounge as it opened, but as Turkish Airlines’ flight to Istanbul left at 0650, I had the entire lounge to myself for the next two hours or so, giving me plenty of space to sit back. The windows offered an expansive view of the ramp, and I enjoyed watching the early morning movements marking the beginning of another day at this airport.
Mini sandwiches
Yoghurt, fruits, and pastries
Desserts and snacks
Juices, bread, and jam
Coffee machine
Refrigerated items
Hot food availability
Hot dishes would not be served at the buffet until 0900, and unfortunately I had to leave before that to board my flight, so I did not get to see what was available. Until then, there was a variety of cold items on offer, including some small sandwiches, cakes, pastries, fruits, and yoghurt. The showers happened to not be open at the time I visited. The reception agent noted that shower use was not included with lounge access in any case, and normally there would be an 18EUR charge to use them. I found this somewhat disappointing for a lounge marketed as the premium option. Overall, the lounge was comfortable and spacious, although I wouldn’t go out of my way to spend time here.
Delta Airbus A330 to New York
Cathay Pacific Boeing 777 to Hong Kong, Singapore Airlines Airbus A350 to Barcelona
Gate Area
I left the lounge for the gate about an hour before our scheduled departure. Aircrafts parked at the terminal around that time included a Delta A330 to New York, a Cathay Pacific Boeing 777 to Hong Kong, and a Singapore Airlines Airbus A350 flying the fifth freedom service to Barcelona, which made for some nice views.
Boarding at Gate B50
Golden Falcon tail in the distance
View of the aircraft
Boarding through the jet bridge
Boarding through the jet bridge
Four days a week, the morning service from Milano to Bahrain operates via Roma, where additional passengers board for the journey toward the Gulf. Boarding began with a bit of a delay around 0935, and perhaps since this first leg of the flight was quite empty, all passengers were invited to board at the same time. The position of gate B50 allowed me to only catch a glimpse of the Golden Falcon tail, Gulf Air’s iconic logo. As usual, I was very excited making my way down the jet bridge to experience my journey with Gulf Air.
Qatar Airways A350 pushing back to Doha
We were held on the jet bridge for a few minutes, during which a Qatar Airways A350 pushed back to Doha, getting a head start on the journey toward the Gulf!
Milan to Bahrain Onboard Experience
Boarding through the L1 door
View over the wing
Gulf Air Airbus A321neo cabin
We were invited to board through the forward door after a brief delay, and the crew greeted us as we made our way onto the young A321neo. The front of the cabin features four rows of business class seats in a 2-2 configuration. The cabin finishes were luxurious but not gaudy, mostly making use of shades of black and grey with touches of metallic gold.
Seat 3F on the Airbus A321neo
Touchscreen controller and water bottle
Entertainment screen
Footwell and blanket
Audio jack and USB port
Personal device holder
Tray table folded out
Privacy divider
AC power ports
I settled into my window seat on the right side of the aisle, with a pillow and blanket set at the seat. The seat is a rendition of the popular Collins Aerospace Diamond product, with rather modern finishes fitting for this relatively new jet. The centre console featured the literature pocket, seat controls, and USB and AC charging ports. There was also a touchscreen controller for the 17-inch screen in front, and there was the option to operate the entertainment system using the screen itself as well. There was some shelving below the screen and an ottoman space for storage. A retractable armrest was on the other side of the seat, with USB ports, a lamp, and additional seat controls at shoulder level. The tray table slides out of the centre console and can be deployed either in a smaller folded configuration or as a full table. An adjustable panel served as a device holder. There was also a privacy divider that could be raised between the seats. All together, this was a functional and comfortable seat for these medium-haul narrowbody flights.
Welcome drinks
Hot and cold towels
Welcome Champagne and lemonade
Arabic dates
Arabic coffee
The ground service began with a welcome drink, with a choice between orange juice and a specialty lemonade with mint. I chose the latter option, which was a refreshing start to the journey. Another flight attendant then came around with scented towels, with a choice of either hot or cold. I was also asked if I would like to have some champagne, and I enjoyed its drier flavour along with the sweet lemonade. The crew then came to offer Arabic dates and coffee, an Arabic tradition for welcoming guests. This made for quite an elaborate pre-departure service and an excellent start to the journey.
Islamic travel prayer
Safety video
Pushback complete
Boarding was complete in just a few minutes, and the traditional Islamic travel prayer was played. The safety video then followed, featuring a moving shadow of Gulf Air’s falcon as well as elements of the Bahrain F1, which is sponsored by the airline. The animated film was fairly straightforward, and we were pushed back and ready to go as the video finished.
Taxiing out: Hainan Airlines, Air China
Taxiing out: Aegean Airlines, Air Europa
Taxiing out: Iberia, Air Baltic, Austrian Airlines
Taxiing out: Delta Air Lines
Taxiing out: DHL
Our short taxi took us past the terminal and aircraft from many carriers, European and beyond.
Takeoff from Milano
Views over Lombardy
Sun light over the clouds
Soon, we took off toward the North and turned South, with views of Milano sprawling among the hilly terrain of Lombardy below us. It was an overcast day, and soon we made our way through the clouds and met the warm Italian sun.
Sandwiches and cannoli
Due to the short duration of the hop to Roma, only a light meal was served. The flight attendant came by and offered a variety of small sandwiches, with a choice between tomato, aubergine, salmon, or roast beef. There was also a choice of sweet bites between a cupcake and a cannoli. I asked for the roast beef, the cannoli, and some sparkling water to go along. These bites were simple but enjoyable, and I thought this was a solid offering for the short flight.
Lavatory toiletries
Lavatory sink
Air sickness bags and toilet covers
Amenity kit
Amenity kit
There was one lavatory toward the front for Falcon Gold passengers, stocked with a diffuser and a specially blended lotion. The cabin crew came by to hand out a simple amenity kit consisting of an eye mask and socks, a sufficient offering for the journey.
Italy's Mediterranean coast
Italy's Mediterranean coast
Italy's Mediterranean coast, Monte Argentario
Italy's Mediterranean coast
Our route to Roma took us along the Western Italian coast along the Mediterranean Sea. With the sunlight glistening on the turquoise water and beaming on the long stretches of sand, Italy’s charm as a beach destination struck me like never before. This was also my first time paying close attention to the rugged coastline of the Italian peninsula. Monte Argentario, a small peninsula sandwiching a lagoon with the mainland, was a distinctive feature.
Approach into Roma
Approach to Roma
Landing at Fiumicino Airport
Taxiing to parking stand
Soon we began to make our way inland as we approached the hilly terrain of the central peninsula, touching down at Roma’s Fiumicino airport after less than an hour in the air. The blue-bodied planes marked the hub for ITA Airways, the rebranded flag carrier Alitalia.
A321 Economy cabin
Passengers from Milano were asked to remain in the cabin while the crew prepared for the onward journey to Bahrain. I got up to take a look at the economy cabin, which also featured shades of beige and grey with the Golden Falcon logo printed on each headrest.
Welcome drinks
Headphones
After about ten minutes on the ground, boarding began for the onward journey to Bahrain. Many passengers boarded in Roma, and the plane quickly became full except for a few seats. The crew came again with the pre-departure offerings of lemonade, champagne, coffee, and dates, while also handing out a noise-cancelling headphones for each passenger.
Pushback
Taxiing out for departure
Taxiing out for departure
Taxiing out for departure
Boarding was completed shortly and we were ready for pushback again after about an hour on the ground, a fairly efficient turn. The safety video was shown again and we taxiied past the terminal toward the runway.
Takeoff from Roma
Mediterranean coast views on ascent
Flying over the Mediterranean
We took off westward with closer-up views of the beaches and the Mediterranean Sea as we climbed out of Roma. Soon the Italian peninsula was no longer in sight as we made our way above the clouds.
Entertainment system programming
The crew came around to distribute menus for the flight after takeoff, which were provided in English and Arabic. While the standard procedure was to collect the menus shortly after when orders were taken, the crew was happy to allow me to hold onto my copy. I browsed the entertainment system, which included a solid selection of movies and TV shows, and decided to watch a documentary about Pope Francis’ historical visit to Bahrain back in 2023.
Arabic Mezza Starter
Bread basket
The appetizer was served approximately 40 minutes after takeoff, and as usual, I went with the local option of the Arabic Mezza, consisting of hummus (a chickpea sauce), sarma (stuffed grape leaf), mutabal (a roasted eggplant dip), labneh (yoghurt cheese) balls, and fattoush salad. The crew also came with bread baskets from which passengers could choose what they wanted. They were out of Pita bread by the time they reached my seat, but I enjoyed some garlic bread and focaccia.
Veal osso buco main course
While I was hoping to enjoy some Middle Eastern cuisine for the main course, it was unfortunately not offered on the menu, probably in part due to the fact that the flight was catered in Italy. This meant that there were some Italian dishes available though, and I enjoyed the braised veal shanks, osso buco style but without the bone. The gremolata sauce was buried in the jus, but the tomato and parsley flavours stood out distinctly. The meat itself was quite tender and flavourful, and the carrots and mashed potatoes were nice accompaniments for the dish.
Dessert cart
Lemon meringue cake with black tea
After the plates were collected from the main course, the crew rolled out a dessert cart, where the choices included fruit, cheeses, a raspberry cheesecake, a chocolate cake, or a lemon meringue cake. I asked for the lemon cake and some black tea to go along. The meringue topping was light and fluffy, and the lemon base was tangy and refreshing, although a little sweet for my liking.
Flight progress over the Mediterranean
We continued making our way across the Mediterranean while I laid down and slept for about an hour. I then stopped by the galley and had a nice chat with the purser Rashid, a Bahraini local and a 34-year veteran of the airline. He was very excited that I was visiting Bahrain and was eager to tell me about his country. We also chatted about his favorite destinations to fly to, and he remarked that Athens and Istanbul have the best outstation catering. He certainly takes great joy in his job, though he also admitted that Gulf Air’s network has seen better days.
Pre-landing refreshments
With an hour left in the flight, the crew offered some refreshments before landing, which happened to be the same choices as the flight from Milan. I asked for the salmon and aubergine sandwiches. I also asked if there were any leftover desserts from the meal service, and the crew offered the chocolate cake, which was hearty and tasteful.
Oil fields in Saudi Arabia's desert
City of Dammam
We began our descent as the sun was starting to set, and we were met with views of the Saudi Arabian desert interspersed with patches of oil fields as we came through the clouds. We continued East as we flew over the city of Dammam, connected to Bahrain by the 25 km-long King Fahd Causeway over the Gulf of Bahrain.
Approach in the sunset
Skyline of Bahrain
Sunset on the horizon
The islands of Bahrain came into view as we continued East. The blue water of the Persian Gulf surrounded this Island nation, shimmering in the gentle red hues of the setting sun. Bahrain is the smallest of the Gulf states, both in size and area, but its skyline was nonetheless decorated with clusters of skyscrapers, much like other cities in the region.
Final approach to Bahrain
Taxiing toward the terminal
Parking at the terminal
Bahrain Airport arrivals
We turned West again for our final descent, and a line of Golden Falcon tails greeted us as we taxiied to the terminal. I bid the crew farewell and walked into the newly renovated terminal at Bahrain International Airport.
Touring Bahrain
Arrivals Immigration Hall
Baggage claim hall
Arrivals hall
Arrivals curb
As a heavily banked hub, most arriving passengers were connecting on the evening services to India, Asia, or other destinations in the Middle East, and I was one of the few to head toward the arrival hall. The entry process was fairly easy, and I was on my way after paying the 5BHD (~13USD) visa-on-arrival fee. The night had fallen by the time I left the terminal.
Tikka dinner with friends from travels
I met up with some friends I had met in Riyadh earlier in the year. Originally from China, they have been living and working in Bahrain for the better part of the past decade. We enjoyed some tikka for dinner, the local variant of grilled skewered meat, which was hearty and flavourful.
Bab al Bahrain
I stayed near the old city centre of the capital Manama, now an area sprinkled with small shops and restaurants, and spent some time walking around in the morning. The Bab al Bahrain stands as an imposing entry to the souq, Arabic for the street markets.
Bahrain World Trade Centre
Bahrain Financial Harbour twin towers
Further along the main road, the Bahrain World Trade Centre comes into sight. The triangular twin building with wind turbines revolving between is a defining feature of Bahrain’s skyline today. The twin towers of the Bahrain Financial Harbour also stand prominently.
Dosa for breakfast
Little India mural
The narrow streets of the city centre were also home to many of the migrant workers that make up a bulk of the labour force here, as in the other Gulf countries. Little India is situated in this area, and I enjoyed some dosa for breakfast at a casual eatery.
Al Khawaja mosque
Dotting the densely occupied area were also many mosques, a mark of the religious nature of the country. The Al Khawaja mosque caught my eye in particular due to its intricately patterned and colourful exterior.
Dragon city in Muharraq
I spent the rest of the day with my local friends, and I stopped by Dragon City, a recently completed mall housing many small businesses. These shops are mostly Chinese-owned and import their products from China. My friends have made this place home over the years and built a social circle with other local Chinese merchants, a testament to the vibrant expat communities in Bahrain.
Bahrain Departure Ground Experience
Departure curb
Falcon Gold check in
Falcon Gold check in
Departure board
My friends dropped me back off at the airport in the early evening, and I was looking forward to witness Gulf Air’s inaugural service to China. Bahrain’s airport is smaller in size than many of its peers in the region but no less visually appealing. The check-in hall was bright and open with white marble finishes.
Falcon Gold check in
Falcon gold immigration counters
Departures hall
Falcon Gold customers on Gulf Air were directed to check-in counters in row F, with seating at every counter as the agents processed each guest. There were few other passengers at the time I arrived, and a friendly agent helped check me in for the flight within a few minutes. The Falcon Gold check-in area led to a separate immigration inspection and security line, and within a few minutes, I arrived at the airside departure zone of the airport.
Departures hall shops
Departures hall shops
Kids play area
Immediately after security was some duty-free shops, leading to the gate area with floor-to-ceiling views of the ramp. There was also a set of stairs in the middle of the departure area that led down to a nicely equipped play area for kids.
Falcon Gold lounge escalators
Falcon Gold lounge entrance
Model aircraft display case
A set of escalators among the shops led to Gulf Air’s business class lounge, named the Falcon Gold lounge, on the level above. Near the entrance of the lounge were model aircrafts of the first Avro Anson of Gulf Aviation as well as the latest Boeing 787-9, condensing the seventy-year history of the airline into a miniature display case.
Welcome wall
Business Centre
The agent at the front desk quickly checked me in, and the main section was immediate to the left, starting with a business centre with some monitors and a copy printer.
Historial fleet display
Historial logo display
Seating area
Ramp views
Additional seating
Next along the corridor were two walls displaying Gulf Air’s historical fleet and logos. The collection portrays the Golden Falcon soaring over the decades in its various incarnations, propelling the airline toward further heights in a new era. With relatively dim lighting and accents of dark wood and black throughout, the overall ambiance of the lounge was modern but calming. Glass panes look down at the gate areas and offer a view of the ramp. A variety of seating options from couches to lounge chairs and dining tables were also available.
Cold dishes
Hot buffet: chicken biryani
Hot buffet: dal makhani, vegetable biryani
Hot buffet: dumplings, fried noodles
Staffed station: noodle bowls, spring rolls
Staffed station: pizza, bread
Desserts and cheeses
Ice cream station
Popcorn station
Bar area
Further into the lounge was the dining area. There was then a station with cold dishes including salads and dips, one with hot dishes, one with desserts, as well as a staffed counter serving other items such as pizza and noodle bowls. There were also stations with popcorn, coffee, ice cream, as well as a bar area. The buffet consisted of a variety of Western, Middle Eastern, and South Asian dishes. Celebrating the launch of service to China, there was also a special selection of Chinese items. Most of the dishes were quite delicious, and I especially enjoyed the beef machboos and chicken biryani, getting another fill of the local cuisine. I found some of the Chinese items a little strange though, which included options like a Chinese pizza, soup dumplings drenched in sauce, and egg tarts with a thick crust.
Kids area
Theatre
Pool table
The lounge also had a small kid’s area, a dimly lit movie theater, and a pool table. Overall, the entertainment options in the lounge were quite impressive.
Washroom sinks
Shower suite sink and toiletries basket
Shower suite
The bathroom was staffed with a lounge attendant who worked hard to keep the area clean. Tucked away at the end of the bathroom was the shower suite. The front desk provided towels and toiletries, and shower gel was available in dispensers. I appreciated being able to freshen up a bit before my flight, though the suite was quite minimally furnished. A chair, additional hooks for storing belongings,and a bath mat for the floor would have made for a much more comfortable experience.
A9C-FG retro livery Boeing 787-9
I headed to the gate much earlier than usual to catch the preflight celebrations. Gulf Air chose to use a Dreamliner with a retro livery to fly the route today, an acknowledgment of its heritage as it reaches further across the globe.
Inaugural service signage
Reverse of inaugural sign
Departures hall
Inaugural celebration desserts
There was a large sign marking the inaugural service. It was not very obvious, but I discovered that the reverse of the sign would be used for the first flight to Guangzhou the next day. Talk about an efficient use of resources! Some staff walked around offering special cupcakes to passengers as more people arrived for the occasion.
CEO Dr. Jeffrey Goh
CTO Mazin Saleh
Interview with CCTV
I was really glad to meet some of the company’s leadership, including Chief Executive Officer Dr. Jeffrey Goh, Chief Technical Officer Mazin Saleh, and Chief Customer Experience Officer Hanadi Alaali. I shared with them my excitement for the inaugural journey, and they were very glad to see that I came from Boston to take part in this historical flight. Mr. Saleh told me about the work they have been doing behind the scenes to make this route happen, along with the other destinations that Gulf Air is starting this summer. He also shared that they had just completed an FAA inspection earlier that week, and they are getting closer to launching service to the US, which would be quite a significant milestone for the airline. Local Bahraini media and Chinese state broadcaster CCTV were also there for the event, and I was pleased to give a brief interview!
Gulf Air leadership and crew
Boarding at gate 17
Boarding through jet bridge
Boarding through jet bridge
Soon the crew for the flight arrived and posed for a photo before boarding the aircraft. The flight was again quite empty, and at 2110, all passengers were invited onboard. With cameras clicking as each boarding pass was scanned, I made my way down the jet bridge toward the Dreamliner that would take us across the continent tonight.
Bahrain to Shanghai Onboard Experience
Boarding through door L2
Dreamliner Falcon Gold cabin
Front panel with logo
The cabin manager greeted passengers at the second door and directed me toward the Falcon Gold cabin on the left. The cabin on Gulf Air’s Boeing 787-9 fleet features the Apex Suites product developed by B/E Aerospace. This is one of the most highly regarded business class products in the air, exuding a unique elegance with Gulf Air’s neutral colour tones and golden finishes.
Seat 1A
Entertainment screen, bedding and amenity kit
Literature pocket
Handset
Tray table and amenity kit contents
Seat controls
Audio and USB ports
I settled into seat 1A by the window. These seats in this configuration offer an impressive level of privacy, especially with the divider raised, and allow one to access the aisle without stepping over the neighbouring passenger due to a small gap in front of the adjacent seat, though it made for a slightly awkward angle for the service procedures. A pillow was prepared at the seat, while an amenity kit and blanket were placed on the ottoman in front. The storage space on the right contained a bottle of water, the menu, the safety card, as well as headphones. Along the right armrest was a remote controller for the entertainment screen and the weighty and sturdy tray table that slides out. Seat controls were found on the left armrest. Ports for headphones and USB charging were under the armrest and behind the literature pocket, a slightly awkward placement.
Welcome drinks
Hot and cold towels
Arabic dates
Arabic coffee
Saad Ahmad from LocalBH
As with the last few flights, the crew came around with lemonade, hot and cold towels, coffee, and dates to welcome us onboard. With most seats in the cabin occupied by company executives and media representatives, the atmosphere onboard was palpably different from an ordinary flight: everyone was excited and engaged. I happened to sit next to Saad Ahmad, the founder of LocalBH, a new digital media company based in Bahrain. We chatted throughout the flight about Gulf Air and the local aviation scene, and it was great to make a new friend on this journey!
Travel prayer
Safety video
Taxiing for departure
Boarding was completed quickly, and the travel prayer and safety video were screened while we taxied out for departure.
Bahrain skyline at night
Climb towards the Persian Gulf
At 2150, we thrust off into the night sky of Bahrain. The gorgeous coastline and ocean were not quite as prominent as during the day, but the brightly lit skyline remained in sight as we climbed toward the Persian Gulf away from the Arabian peninsula.
Commemorative fan
Soon after take-off, the crew came around to hand out commemorative handheld fans and took orders for the dinner service. In contrast to the previous flight, the menu for this flight was printed in English, Chinese, as well as Arabic. Although Gulf Air has hired Chinese cabin crew, they were not rostered on this flight. While no issues arose, Chinese routes can certainly be challenging without local crew helping out, and I hope that Gulf Air will be able to provide service in Chinese soon.
Prawn ceviche starter
Bread basket
Having had a mezze on the previous flight, I decided to go with the prawn ceviche for the first course. The cilantro and fresh chopped peppers made for a refreshing dish, although I personally would have preferred a little stronger citrus flavour. The crew also offered selections from the bread basket, and I enjoyed some pita and garlic bread.
Lamb kabsa main dish
For the main course, I chose the lamb kabsa, a spiced rice dish popular in the Gulf region. The fragrances of cloves and black pepper steamed from the rice, and the lamb was also quite tender even after reheating. The tomato-based makhani sauce added some more flavours on top, and the zucchinis were a nice accompaniment to the dish. Overall, I was very pleased with this plate.
Saad’s fish cake
The other options on the menu were intriguing. Between the soya ginger flavoured chicken, fish cakes with wasabi mayonnaise, and sesame chili cauliflower, there was an evident attempt to offer dishes with a Chinese touch, but I thought many of the side dishes offered were curious choices to go along. Saad had the fish cakes for his main course and offered some for me to try. While the umami flavour was appetizing, the panko crust did not reheat very well, leaving the dish somewhat soggy.
Dessert cart
Fruit and ginger date tiramisu
After plates were collected for the main course, the crew rolled out the dessert cart, again with cheese and fruits. The dessert choices included a ginger date tiramisu or a banana coconut cake, and I went with the former. The spicy ginger accentuated the sweet cream, which was rounded out by the rich flavour of dates. This was quite a creative take on the tiramisu, which I very much enjoyed. While I appreciated the ceremonial presentation of the dessert cart, waiting for all passengers to finish the main course before offering dessert does take away some time for rest on the overnight flight.
Economy cabin on the Dreamliner
I took a quick peek at the economy cabin, which went out fairly empty on this flight, making for quite a peaceful cabin.
Pajamas and slippers
Lavatory sink
Lavatory toiletries
Bidet controller
Pajamas and slippers were available on request for the flight, and I went to the lavatory to get changed for some rest. The amenities were largely similar to the lavatory on the previous flight, but I was surprised to find a bidet toilet available, though the buttons were getting a little worn.
Bed after turndown
Gulf Air offered a turn-down service, though there was just an extra blanket for padding instead of a mattress pad. The bed was still quite comfortable, with plenty of length to stretch out. The air above the Indian subcontinent was a little turbulent on this day, but the gentle rocking made for some restful sleep as we continued East across Asia.
Sunrise through the dimmed windows
I woke up after a few hours and spent some time in the galley chatting with the crew, who were very excited about the new destination on the route map and the two-day layover in China. The sun began to appear on the horizon as a bright purple spot due to the dimmed windows, a rather unique look.
Chamomile tea and cardamom cookie
Wifi availability
The crew offered me some chamomile tea along with a cardamom cookie, which I enjoyed as the sky continued to brighten up. Free wifi was purportedly available on the flight, although it ended up being unavailable for most of the journey.
Breakfast tray
Breakfast bread basket
With about an hour and a half to landing, the breakfast service began. The crew brought pastries from a basket along with a fruit plate and offered choices among a banana cinnamon smoothie, a muesli, and a congee. The smoothie was quite rich and filling. I also tried the congee, which came with toasted peanuts, chicken, and mushrooms. The dish was warm and hearty, although I would have preferred some more traditional accompaniments with stronger flavours.
Mimosa after breakfast
The overall portion size for the breakfast was relatively small, but it was a nice pre-landing meal, especially since dinner was served just a few hours prior. I was still in a celebratory mood though, so I asked for a mimosa to round off the flight. Cheers!
Crossing the Yangtze River
Urban landscape of the Yangtze Plains
Soon the cabin lights were turned on and we began our descent as we crossed the Yangtze River near the city of Wuhu, getting a closer look at the sprawling urban landscape of the Yangtze Plains on our way down.
Approach over Huangpu River
The final approach took us over the Huangpu River, with a view of the skyline of the glitzy Lujiazui and the busy shipping operations on the river, flowing as a bloodline of China’s economy.
Approach into Shanghai
Approach into Shanghai
Landing at Pudong Airport
Taxiing around the terminal
Taxiing around the terminal
Taking a sharp turn West, we were soon lined up with the runway and touched down at Pudong Airport, marking the Golden Falcon’s entry into China’s aviation market. The taxi to the terminal tends to be lengthy at Pudong, and we made our way around the main terminal building before reaching our parking stand in Terminal 2.
Firetrucks waiting at the gate
Water cannon salute
Airport staff gathered at the gate
Firetrucks and many excited airport staff awaited our arrival at the gate, and we were met with a water cannon salute as we pulled into the stand. Amusingly, the captain came over the PA to let us know that there would be water sprayed on the aircraft: it was normal procedure in aviation tradition and we did not have to worry!
Arrival Ground Experience
Looking back at the aircraft
Dr. Goh with local partners
Baggage claim hall
Local team greeting Gulf Air representatives on arrival
I thanked the crew as we left the aircraft after the celebratory journey. Representatives from local partners of Gulf Air met our flight at the gate and posed for some photos with the company leadership. Border control was not too busy at the time we arrived, after which we headed upstairs for some additional celebrations.
Gulf Air check-in counters in Shanghai
The check-in counters for the return flight to Bahrain was quite crowded. With a highly competitive aviation market in China, Gulf Air has taken a rather unique strategy of partnering with Jinjiang Group, a major Chinese travel provider, to serve as the carrier for their package tours. Many passengers at these busy counters were heading with tour groups to Dubai, a sign of the success of this approach in claiming market share.
Tour groups pose for photos
Passengers pose for photos with Dr. Goh and crew representatives
A billboard commemorating the inaugural service was next to the check-in counters. Many passengers were holding signs and excited to pose for pictures, and Gulf Air executives were happy to be featured in their frames.
Inauguration ceremony
Address by Dr. Goh
Address by a representative from Shanghai Airports
A more formal ceremony was later held in the departure hall, with addresses from CEO Dr. Goh as well as representatives from Jinjiang and the airport, expressing their excitement for the fruition of the collaborative effort and the opportunities that the new air connection brings.
Ribbon cutting ceremony
Lion dancing
The speeches were followed by a ribbon-cutting ceremony. Then, under the rhythmic beat of the drums, a lion dance performance took centre stage. Two lions bolted back and forth on the stage, at times raising their heads in a show of power and vigour. The dynamic dance routine is a tradition for celebrations in China and especially in the business world, meant to bring good luck and prosperity to new ventures.
Eye-dotting of the lion
Representatives took part in the eye-dotting of the lion, a traditional part of a lion dance that symbolizes vitalizing the sleeping lion and its might in fending off bad luck and evil spirits.
Banners from the lion
Concluding the ceremony, banners dropped from the lion, reading “上海巴林逐梦启航 空中丝路连通全球” (flying from Shanghai to Bahrain following the dreams, aerial silk road connecting the world). In addition to its commercial significance, the new route also represents part of a push from the Chinese government to increase air connectivity with its partners around the world. The past year has seen many other routes to the Middle East inaugurated as well, including Shanghai-Riyadh, Xiamen-Doha, and Hangzhou-Dubai, a sign of the deepening economic ties between China and the region.
Concluding Thoughts
As an aviation enthusiast, being able to partake in the celebrations marking a major expansion for an airline’s route network was a very special opportunity, and I thoroughly enjoyed meeting all the people at Gulf Air who made this route a reality. Overall, Gulf Air offers a competitive product and boasts employees who make a genuine effort to make passengers feel comfortable. I do hope that they will be able to find success in the competitive market between China and the Middle East and that the Golden Falcon will continue to soar across the skies for many years to come.
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